Producing wine on Belle-Île-en-Mer is the story of a daring project fraught with pitfalls, initiated by Bernard Malosi, technical director of the estate owned by billionaire Christian Latouche (Fiducial group). The idea had been germinating for some fifteen years, and the project finally saw the light of day in spring 2021, despite numerous obstacles. From the outset, the project faced strong local opposition, particularly from second-home owners and an association that launched a petition against what they saw as the privatisation of the wild coast.
Despite controversy and a high-profile public enquiry, the Prefect of Morbihan finally authorised the cultivation of 11.7 hectares of organic vines in the south of the island in autumn 2021, following the favourable opinion of the investigating commissioner. Although opponents attempted to appeal to the administrative court, their appeal was rejected.
An island vineyard in full development
The first vines were planted three years ago at Le Petit Cosquet, in the commune of Bangor, with 1.6 hectares of Chardonnay and one hectare of Savagnin, the emblematic grape variety of the Jura. Grégory Debruyne, a former organic market gardener who is in charge of the plantations, hopes to achieve a yield of around thirty hectolitres, with a totally insular project from cultivation to bottling.
There is no shortage of challenges: apart from the vagaries of the weather, the main enemy of the vines is the pheasant, an invasive species with an estimated population of almost 20,000 on the island. These birds cause considerable damage to crops, forcing the team to set up protective nets and visual scaring devices, and to call in hunters from time to time to limit their impact.
A promising future for Belle-Île-en-Mer wine
By 2026, the estate hopes to have planted 11.5 hectares with a variety of grape varieties, including Syrah, Viognier, Chenin, Chardonnay and Savagnin, with Cabernet Franc scheduled for next April. These varieties will be used to create unique blends, possibly marked by the typical Belle-Île aromas of broom and gorse, similar to the garrigue-like wines of Provence.
This wine-growing adventure on Belle-Île-en-Mer marks the start of an exceptional project, combining natural challenges and a passion for the land, with the ambition of producing unique wines that reflect the island's identity.
